Cheese: the taste of obsession?

When Gippslandia revealed their concept for this edition, my gaze immediately turned inwards – what obsessions have defined my life?

In the kitchen, I realised my obsessions occur in waves, featuring ingredients, cuisines or techniques. For example, the mushroom phase, Thermomix phase, fermented peppercorn phase, pandemic pasta phase and so on. Each phase leaves an imprint, builds knowledge and deepens my appreciation for food.

But, right now, I’m between obsessions, awaiting the next one to take hold.

Pondering Gippsland food obsessives, Stacey Wagner instantly came to mind. Stacey, who previously owned Warragul’s renowned Stella’s Pantry, has an unwavering passion for cheese (among other things). Stacey’s interest in the coagulation of casein has not only shaped her life but also enriched the fortunate souls who’ve tasted her expertise.

“...it all started with my pa, who used to hand-milk a cow every morning.”

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Read on for my conversation with Stacey about her love for fromage.

Mettle + Grace: How did you get started in the business of cheese?

Stacey Wagner: It all starts with milk! Thinking back now, it all started with my pa, who used to hand-milk a cow every morning. We grew up drinking raw cow’s milk, which at the time I didn’t appreciate.

My first job after school was in a fruit and veg shop courtesy of Pa. When they put in a deli, I started talking to a very passionate cheese rep (Olivia Sutton) and I was hooked!

Were you always a cheese lover?

I remember eating lots of Grandma's pickled cucumbers with cheddar as a kid, and that was probably as fancy as my cheese exploration got until I was a teenager. I’ve gone the opposite way with my son. He’s tried every style of cheese, and I’d say the obsession is hereditary.

So, ‘obsessed’ is an accurate way to describe your relationship with cheese?

Absolutely, but there are worse obsessions/addictions, right?! I’m eating, thinking or reading about cheese every day. Whenever I travel, the first thing I hunt down is the local cheese shops or factories.

It’s so intriguing that thousands of products can be made from the same four ingredients – milk, starter culture, rennet and salt – and yet be so different and unique. Also, the seasonal changes in flavour can be so surprising, and there’s nothing better than opening a wheel of cheese and tasting it for the first time!

You had such a diverse range of cheeses at Stella’s Pantry; did a lot of time go into sampling and researching?

So much sampling and researching – it was one of the best parts of the job, along with sharing those finds with our fantastic customers!

In 2015, I was lucky that my amazing business partner Bella held the fort so that I could spend five weeks in Switzerland, Italy and France researching cheese and attending the bi-annual cheese festival in Bra, Italy. I visited suppliers of the cheeses we were stocking at the time, including Mauri (my favourite taleggio and gorgonzola producer).

In 2019, I was lucky enough to do a short stint at Neal’s Yard Dairy in the UK between their maturation arches and shops in the Borough Market and Covent Garden – I learnt so much about English cheddars and territorials.

How do you stay passionate about cheese, especially the commercial side, when faced with challenges?

Cheese changes so much seasonally that it’s pretty easy to stay inspired and passionate. There’s always something new to learn – even after 20 years in the industry.

The most challenging periods were through Covid and the Red Sea Crisis, as it was so hard to get cheese. I was only receiving 30% to 40% of the cheese that I ordered from Europe and Australia.

Have you ever faced criticism or challenges that made you question your obsession with cheese and the goal of sharing the joy of cheese with others?

The price is probably the big one. I’ve read “Good coffee ain’t cheap, cheap coffee ain’t good”, and the same applies to cheese. The skill that goes into producing quality milk that’s then turned into artisan cheese (along with many other factors) can be overlooked.

There’s so much history in artisan cheesemaking that needs to be preserved. I believe in enjoying smaller amounts of quality artisan cheese over larger amounts of mass-produced cheese, but I understand that not everyone has that outlook.

Do you have any upcoming cheesy goals?

I’m very excited to say I’m in the process of setting up a cheese shop in Loch! I’ve been learning how to make cheese over the past two years and can’t wait to be back representing cheesemakers from all over the world as well!

What is your fav cheese pun? If you had to choose one…

…They’re all too gouda! I love the following quote too, “Age is not important unless you’re a cheese.”

Which cheese is your current obsession, and why?

I’m obsessed with trying to make a bloomy rind cheese that has similar flavours to raw milk camembert from Normandy, although I feel like my best option is a plane ticket to France!

I’m loving Bruny Island Raw Milk C2. We brought some back from a recent trip to Tassie and it’s got beautiful sweet, nutty flavours. It’s also the first raw milk cheese made in Australia, so it’s pretty special.

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Stacey is hoping to open the Loch Cheese Merchant at 27 Victoria Road before Christmas – check it out!

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Gippslandia - Issue No. 32

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